Monday, April 5, 2010
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Guest Bedroom Inspiration- Hotel Palomar
Hotel Palomar in Pensylvennia boasts such beautiful furnishings and style that could be incorporated into your own guest bedroom. I particularly love the carpet and window treatments.
Arched Mirrored Windows
These arched windows with mirrors add architectural interest to a home, and draw the eye upwards, giving the illusion of more space. The two below are from Ballard Designs ($699) and Pottery Barn ($299) but you could also find an antique window and have glass cut to fit the frame. Love them!!!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
DIY Upholstered Headboard
How to make a chic headboard like the one designed and created by Sabrina Linn, a Toronto decorator, accessories designer and former H&H style editor.
If you like the look of an upholstered headboard without the custom price tag, why not do it yourself like I did? I built this wall-mounted design with a few straightforward steps and materials. (Be sure to check out my patio makeover, too, as well as the rest of my loft in the August 2009 issue of House & Home.)
Materials & Tools
3/4” “select grade” plywood
High density foam (2 to 3 inches thick)
Batting (see below to measure quantity)
Fabric (see below to measure quantity)
3/4” staples
1 set of heavy duty “d” rings (for either end of the headboard)
3/4” nails or screws
Tape measure
Electronic stud finder (optional)
Step 1
Determine the width of your headboard. Start by measuring the width of your mattress; then add two inches to either side. (Once you have your duvet on your bed it appears wider, so you want your headboard to cover this width.) For example, a queen mattress width is 60 inches, so your finished headboard width should be 64 inches. (Remember the old adage: measure twice, cut once. Ensure your measurements are accurate before cutting any materials.)
Step 2
Determine the height of the headboard: on average, between 28” and 36” tall. You can give the illusion that the finished headboard is slightly taller or shorter by adjusting how high or low you hang it on the wall.
Step 3
Once you have the height and width dimensions, head to a home improvement store. Have them select a piece of 3/4” “select grade” plywood and have it cut to your dimensions. (MDF is not suitable, as heat will will warp it over time.) Select-grade plywood is clean and smooth on at least one side. The smooth side will face the wall.
Step 4
At a fabric supply store, purchase a piece of high-density foam at least 2" to 3” thick. This should be cut to the exact finished size of your headboard. You can expect to pay $80 to $100 for good-quality foam, which is worth investing in because it's plush to lean against. Also, purchase enough batting and fabric to cover the surface area of your headboard, plus add eight inches on both the width and height. This will ensure you have enough batting and fabric to wrap the headboard. So, for a 64 x 36 inch headboard you'll need enough batting and fabric to cover a 72 x 42 inch surface. (Keep in mind fabric is generally 54”. So, if you choose a fabric with a pattern, you will have to seam the fabric together into pieces to get the overall desired width. A better choice might be to go with a solid fabric or one with an overall pattern that has no particular direction. I chose a white vinyl fabric that has the look of tufted leather.)
Step 5
On a flat, clean surface, lay down the fabric with the "right side" facing down. Lay the cotton batting on top of the fabric. Lay the foam down onto the centre of the batting, and then the plywood (smooth side up) on top of that.
Step 6
Begin wrapping the fabric and batting over the foam and plywood as you would wrap a gift. Pull the fabric so it is taut, and staple the fabric and batting together onto the plywood, starting at the sides (three and nine positions if it were a clock.) Continue stapling at the top and bottom, and then at 1-inch intervals until the entire frame is done. The corners can be cut back and folded so that they form a neat, tucked in edge. (This may take some practice.)
Step 7
Determine the spacing of the studs within the wall where you will hang the headboard. (You can use an electronic stud finder tool for this or tap on the wall.) Installing your hanging hardware into these studs will ensure the stability and safety of the headboard. Install nails or screws into the studs. Then, attach the “d” ring hanging hardware onto the back of the headboard according to measurement of the studs and hanging nails or screws. Once the set of d rings are installed, you can hang your headboard.
via Canadian House and Home
If you like the look of an upholstered headboard without the custom price tag, why not do it yourself like I did? I built this wall-mounted design with a few straightforward steps and materials. (Be sure to check out my patio makeover, too, as well as the rest of my loft in the August 2009 issue of House & Home.)
Materials & Tools
3/4” “select grade” plywood
High density foam (2 to 3 inches thick)
Batting (see below to measure quantity)
Fabric (see below to measure quantity)
3/4” staples
1 set of heavy duty “d” rings (for either end of the headboard)
3/4” nails or screws
Tape measure
Electronic stud finder (optional)
Step 1
Determine the width of your headboard. Start by measuring the width of your mattress; then add two inches to either side. (Once you have your duvet on your bed it appears wider, so you want your headboard to cover this width.) For example, a queen mattress width is 60 inches, so your finished headboard width should be 64 inches. (Remember the old adage: measure twice, cut once. Ensure your measurements are accurate before cutting any materials.)
Step 2
Determine the height of the headboard: on average, between 28” and 36” tall. You can give the illusion that the finished headboard is slightly taller or shorter by adjusting how high or low you hang it on the wall.
Step 3
Once you have the height and width dimensions, head to a home improvement store. Have them select a piece of 3/4” “select grade” plywood and have it cut to your dimensions. (MDF is not suitable, as heat will will warp it over time.) Select-grade plywood is clean and smooth on at least one side. The smooth side will face the wall.
Step 4
At a fabric supply store, purchase a piece of high-density foam at least 2" to 3” thick. This should be cut to the exact finished size of your headboard. You can expect to pay $80 to $100 for good-quality foam, which is worth investing in because it's plush to lean against. Also, purchase enough batting and fabric to cover the surface area of your headboard, plus add eight inches on both the width and height. This will ensure you have enough batting and fabric to wrap the headboard. So, for a 64 x 36 inch headboard you'll need enough batting and fabric to cover a 72 x 42 inch surface. (Keep in mind fabric is generally 54”. So, if you choose a fabric with a pattern, you will have to seam the fabric together into pieces to get the overall desired width. A better choice might be to go with a solid fabric or one with an overall pattern that has no particular direction. I chose a white vinyl fabric that has the look of tufted leather.)
Step 5
On a flat, clean surface, lay down the fabric with the "right side" facing down. Lay the cotton batting on top of the fabric. Lay the foam down onto the centre of the batting, and then the plywood (smooth side up) on top of that.
Step 6
Begin wrapping the fabric and batting over the foam and plywood as you would wrap a gift. Pull the fabric so it is taut, and staple the fabric and batting together onto the plywood, starting at the sides (three and nine positions if it were a clock.) Continue stapling at the top and bottom, and then at 1-inch intervals until the entire frame is done. The corners can be cut back and folded so that they form a neat, tucked in edge. (This may take some practice.)
Step 7
Determine the spacing of the studs within the wall where you will hang the headboard. (You can use an electronic stud finder tool for this or tap on the wall.) Installing your hanging hardware into these studs will ensure the stability and safety of the headboard. Install nails or screws into the studs. Then, attach the “d” ring hanging hardware onto the back of the headboard according to measurement of the studs and hanging nails or screws. Once the set of d rings are installed, you can hang your headboard.
via Canadian House and Home
Friday, March 26, 2010
Thursday, March 25, 2010
DIY Chair Makeover
Style editor Michael Penney shares his step-by-step tips for transforming a thrift-store find into a chic occasional chair. I can't wait buy my chair and start this project ASAP!
Materials & Tools
Is it practical? For an occasional chair, look for a wider seat and a back that will feel comfortable sitting in for a length of time.
Is it pretty? Play it safe with classic, traditional styles. You can always use paint and fabric to amp up a timeless silhouette.
Is it DIY? If you want to refinish a chair yourself, avoid seats with crisp, boxy edges stitched together with piping, as these must be professionally reupholstered. Instead, choose a removable seat: look for screws in the corners of the seat base, indicating it can be popped off, recovered and reattached. For how-to details, see Step 4: How To Reupholster.
Step 2: Select Finishes
Trim Find DIY nailhead tacks at fabric stores. Or use a glue gun to apply grosgrain ribbon trim.
Step 3: Sand, Prime & Paint
Sand Use a fine grit sandpaper to rub off the wood’s shiny finish and prep it for paint.
Prime Apply one coat of latex primer. For a smooth finish with minimal brush strokes, use a brush with soft natural bristles.
Paint Brush on two light coats of latex semi-gloss interior paint. “I don’t sand between coats because I apply the paint in thin layers,” says H&H style editor Michael Penney, who says “thin” means he can see the primer showing through after the first coat. Thick paint can cause it to glob or chip off. Use a brush with natural bristles to minimize the appearance of brush lines.
Step 4: How To Reupholster
Remove seat Flip the chair over, unscrew the corner screws and remove the seat.
Remove the original fabric or the refinished chair can look bulky. Use pliers to pull out staples.
Cut the fabric to be a good 4" larger than the size of the seat. You’ll need the extra for stapling.
Wrap the seat Put the fabric down on a table, place the seat on top with the bottom facing up. Pull the fabric taut and use a staple gun to staple onto the seat board. Start with a staple in the centre of the width of the seat, then staple in the centre on the opposite side, then work out to the sides. This will help minimize puckering and fix the fabric so it stays taut.
Finish the corners When you get to the corners, depending on the seat shape, you may need to finesse them by trimming extra fabric, wrapping as tightly as possible or using mitre folds to keep the look neat. With corners, hold the fold tightly with your thumb and turn the seat over to see how it will look before stapling.
via Canadian House and Home.
- Fine grit sandpaper
- Natural bristle paintbrush
- 1 qt latex primer
- 1 qt latex paint in semi-gloss finish
- Pliers, for removing staples
- 1 yd fabric
- Staple gun
- Nailhead tacks or grosgrain ribbon (for optional trim)
- Glue gun (for affixing optional ribbon trim)
Step 1: Choose A Chair
Is it solid? Try prospective chairs before you buy. Tighten slight wobbles with carpenter’s glue but pass on anything too tipsy.
Is it practical? For an occasional chair, look for a wider seat and a back that will feel comfortable sitting in for a length of time.
Is it pretty? Play it safe with classic, traditional styles. You can always use paint and fabric to amp up a timeless silhouette.
Is it DIY? If you want to refinish a chair yourself, avoid seats with crisp, boxy edges stitched together with piping, as these must be professionally reupholstered. Instead, choose a removable seat: look for screws in the corners of the seat base, indicating it can be popped off, recovered and reattached. For how-to details, see Step 4: How To Reupholster.
Paint Natural shades like oyster, cream, white, grey or black can make a thrift store chair look more polished. For an occasional chair that can move between rooms, choose a neutral palette. Use a semi-gloss finish for subtle shine.
Fabric Solids are more portable and timeless and won’t compete with a chair’s ornate lines. Linen or velvet add luxurious texture, though other textiles may be more forgiving when it comes to food spills. Trim Find DIY nailhead tacks at fabric stores. Or use a glue gun to apply grosgrain ribbon trim.
Step 3: Sand, Prime & Paint
Prime Apply one coat of latex primer. For a smooth finish with minimal brush strokes, use a brush with soft natural bristles.
Paint Brush on two light coats of latex semi-gloss interior paint. “I don’t sand between coats because I apply the paint in thin layers,” says H&H style editor Michael Penney, who says “thin” means he can see the primer showing through after the first coat. Thick paint can cause it to glob or chip off. Use a brush with natural bristles to minimize the appearance of brush lines.
Step 4: How To Reupholster
Remove seat Flip the chair over, unscrew the corner screws and remove the seat.
Remove the original fabric or the refinished chair can look bulky. Use pliers to pull out staples.
Cut the fabric to be a good 4" larger than the size of the seat. You’ll need the extra for stapling.
Wrap the seat Put the fabric down on a table, place the seat on top with the bottom facing up. Pull the fabric taut and use a staple gun to staple onto the seat board. Start with a staple in the centre of the width of the seat, then staple in the centre on the opposite side, then work out to the sides. This will help minimize puckering and fix the fabric so it stays taut.
Finish the corners When you get to the corners, depending on the seat shape, you may need to finesse them by trimming extra fabric, wrapping as tightly as possible or using mitre folds to keep the look neat. With corners, hold the fold tightly with your thumb and turn the seat over to see how it will look before stapling.
via Canadian House and Home.
Oversized Crown Molding
Oversized crown moldings look so elegant and vintage. They are ideal when trying to preserve or add charm to a home.
images via sarah richardson and apartment therapy
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
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