Tuesday, March 30, 2010

DIY Upholstered Headboard

How to make a chic headboard like the one designed and created by Sabrina Linn, a Toronto decorator, accessories designer and former H&H style editor.

If you like the look of an upholstered headboard without the custom price tag, why not do it yourself like I did? I built this wall-mounted design with a few straightforward steps and materials. (Be sure to check out my patio makeover, too, as well as the rest of my loft in the August 2009 issue of House & Home.)

Materials & Tools
3/4” “select grade” plywood
High density foam (2 to 3 inches thick)
Batting (see below to measure quantity)
Fabric (see below to measure quantity)
3/4” staples
1 set of heavy duty “d” rings (for either end of the headboard)
3/4” nails or screws
Tape measure
Electronic stud finder (optional)

Step 1
Determine the width of your headboard. Start by measuring the width of your mattress; then add two inches to either side. (Once you have your duvet on your bed it appears wider, so you want your headboard to cover this width.) For example, a queen mattress width is 60 inches, so your finished headboard width should be 64 inches. (Remember the old adage: measure twice, cut once. Ensure your measurements are accurate before cutting any materials.)

Step 2
Determine the height of the headboard: on average, between 28” and 36” tall. You can give the illusion that the finished headboard is slightly taller or shorter by adjusting how high or low you hang it on the wall.

Step 3
Once you have the height and width dimensions, head to a home improvement store. Have them select a piece of 3/4” “select grade” plywood and have it cut to your dimensions. (MDF is not suitable, as heat will will warp it over time.) Select-grade plywood is clean and smooth on at least one side. The smooth side will face the wall.

Step 4
At a fabric supply store, purchase a piece of high-density foam at least 2" to 3” thick. This should be cut to the exact finished size of your headboard. You can expect to pay $80 to $100 for good-quality foam, which is worth investing in because it's plush to lean against. Also, purchase enough batting and fabric to cover the surface area of your headboard, plus add eight inches on both the width and height. This will ensure you have enough batting and fabric to wrap the headboard. So, for a 64 x 36 inch headboard you'll need enough batting and fabric to cover a 72 x 42 inch surface. (Keep in mind fabric is generally 54”. So, if you choose a fabric with a pattern, you will have to seam the fabric together into pieces to get the overall desired width. A better choice might be to go with a solid fabric or one with an overall pattern that has no particular direction. I chose a white vinyl fabric that has the look of tufted leather.)

Step 5
On a flat, clean surface, lay down the fabric with the "right side" facing down. Lay the cotton batting on top of the fabric. Lay the foam down onto the centre of the batting, and then the plywood (smooth side up) on top of that.

Step 6
Begin wrapping the fabric and batting over the foam and plywood as you would wrap a gift. Pull the fabric so it is taut, and staple the fabric and batting together onto the plywood, starting at the sides (three and nine positions if it were a clock.) Continue stapling at the top and bottom, and then at 1-inch intervals until the entire frame is done. The corners can be cut back and folded so that they form a neat, tucked in edge. (This may take some practice.)

Step 7
Determine the spacing of the studs within the wall where you will hang the headboard. (You can use an electronic stud finder tool for this or tap on the wall.) Installing your hanging hardware into these studs will ensure the stability and safety of the headboard. Install nails or screws into the studs. Then, attach the “d” ring hanging hardware onto the back of the headboard according to measurement of the studs and hanging nails or screws. Once the set of d rings are installed, you can hang your headboard.

via Canadian House and Home

Friday, March 26, 2010

Pretty Powder Room

I love love love that tile!!!  So glam.


canadian house and home

Thursday, March 25, 2010

DIY Chair Makeover

Style editor Michael Penney shares his step-by-step tips for transforming a thrift-store find into a chic occasional chair.  I can't wait buy my chair and start this project ASAP!


Materials & Tools
  • Fine grit sandpaper
  • Natural bristle paintbrush
  • 1 qt latex primer
  • 1 qt latex paint in semi-gloss finish
  • Pliers, for removing staples
  • 1 yd fabric
  • Staple gun
  • Nailhead tacks or grosgrain ribbon (for optional trim)
  • Glue gun (for affixing optional ribbon trim)
Step 1: Choose A Chair

 Is it solid? Try prospective chairs before you buy. Tighten slight wobbles with carpenter’s glue but pass on anything too tipsy.

Is it practical? For an occasional chair, look for a wider seat and a back that will feel comfortable sitting in for a length of time.
Is it pretty? Play it safe with classic, traditional styles. You can always use paint and fabric to amp up a timeless silhouette.

Is it DIY? If you want to refinish a chair yourself, avoid seats with crisp, boxy edges stitched together with piping, as these must be professionally reupholstered. Instead, choose a removable seat: look for screws in the corners of the seat base, indicating it can be popped off, recovered and reattached. For how-to details, see Step 4: How To Reupholster.
  
Step 2: Select Finishes

Paint Natural shades like oyster, cream, white, grey or black can make a thrift store chair look more polished. For an occasional chair that can move between rooms, choose a neutral palette. Use a semi-gloss finish for subtle shine.
Fabric Solids are more portable and timeless and won’t compete with a chair’s ornate lines. Linen or velvet add luxurious texture, though other textiles may be more forgiving when it comes to food spills.

Trim Find DIY nailhead tacks at fabric stores. Or use a glue gun to apply grosgrain ribbon trim.

Step 3: Sand, Prime & Paint
Sand Use a fine grit sandpaper to rub off the wood’s shiny finish and prep it for paint.
Prime Apply one coat of latex primer. For a smooth finish with minimal brush strokes, use a brush with soft natural bristles.
Paint Brush on two light coats of latex semi-gloss interior paint. “I don’t sand between coats because I apply the paint in thin layers,” says H&H style editor Michael Penney, who says “thin” means he can see the primer showing through after the first coat. Thick paint can cause it to glob or chip off. Use a brush with natural bristles to minimize the appearance of brush lines.

Step 4: How To Reupholster
Remove seat Flip the chair over, unscrew the corner screws and remove the seat.
Remove the original fabric or the refinished chair can look bulky. Use pliers to pull out staples.
Cut the fabric to be a good 4" larger than the size of the seat. You’ll need the extra for stapling.

Wrap the seat Put the fabric down on a table, place the seat on top with the bottom facing up. Pull the fabric taut and use a staple gun to staple onto the seat board. Start with a staple in the centre of the width of the seat, then staple in the centre on the opposite side, then work out to the sides. This will help minimize puckering and fix the fabric so it stays taut.
Finish the corners When you get to the corners, depending on the seat shape, you may need to finesse them by trimming extra fabric, wrapping as tightly as possible or using mitre folds to keep the look neat. With corners, hold the fold tightly with your thumb and turn the seat over to see how it will look before stapling.

via Canadian House and Home.

Oversized Crown Molding

Oversized crown moldings look so elegant and vintage.  They are ideal when trying to preserve or add charm to a home.




Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Building a House from Start to Finish {in a nutshell}

Building a custom home is an exciting project if you are lucky enough to have the money, time and know-how to do so.  Even if you are doing a major renovation to an existing home, understanding the home-building process can definitely prepare you for what's in store.

Here is the sequence of events that you will need to be apart of according to customhomekey.com.  Keep reading to find out the step by step process of a new home construction (in a nutshell of course!). 

Laying the Foundation

The first stage is laying the foundation- basement foundation being the most common. Other techniques include slab-foundation (in areas where soil conditions are not suitable for a basement) and pole and pier foundations. Pole and pier foundations are a necessity in areas such as coastal states, where homes are sometimes built either partially over water or in floodplains.

With a basement foundation, you will see a crew digging a hole that is larger than the foundation to accommodate to workers doing their job around the foundation forms. Poured concrete is the most common basement foundation method, but treated wood, brick or concrete blocks are also used. It all depends on your location and soil type. With poured concrete, you’ll see the foundation forms go up and reinforcing bars go into the forms. You will also see openings being marked for windows and utilities.

After the concrete is poured into the forms, anchor bolts are placed into the still-soft mixture. These bolts are responsible for securing the exterior walls to the foundation. Once the concrete hardens sufficiently and the forms are removed, you will probably see waterproofing measures such as an impermeable membrane or asphalt coating being applied to the foundation wall to prevent water from seeping in. After the waterproofing measures have been done, the surrounding soil is backfilled against the exterior of the foundation wall.


Constructing the Framing
Floors are framed first and then the walls. If you have a basement foundation you will notice a subfloor will be installed first. Subfloors consist of joists with 4x8 flooring material nailed or screwed to the joists. If you have a slab foundation, the exterior walls will be mounted directly on the slab.
The framing stage provides a glimpse of the future shape of your home. In many ways, framing is the skeleton of your home. You will see holes for windows and doors appear in the building’s envelope and the interior will begin to show its form as well. The interior walls and closets will be framed within.
Framing follows an upward progression. The walls of the first floor are framed, then the second floor and the second set of walls (if there is a second floor), and lastly the roof. Roof trusses are placed on top of the walls and then linked to the exterior walls by metal straps. Next they are tied in to each other by 2x4s. Roof sheathing, usually 4x8 sheets of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), is nailed to the roof trusses. This provides a deck on which the roofing material can be fastened.

Installing the Roofing
When it comes to roofing, an additional step is needed for those that live in colder regions. For colder regions, the first thing to go down on the roof deck is an adhesive, impermeable membrane, which is placed along all the eaves. This membrane prevents ice-dam-trapped water from backing up under the shingles during the winter. It costs more than asphalt paper or roofers felt, but it’s definitely worth it in the long run. Once it is put into place, asphalt paper is applied to the rest of the deck.

Roof covering is the next step. Asphalt shingles are most common. They are designed to last 25 or 30 years, although longer-lasting (thicker) shingles are available. Additional roof-covering choices include clay tiles, slate, cedar shakes, and sheet metal. Prices will vary among them.

Putting Exterior Trim in Place
Now that we have the skeleton of the home in place, its time to give the home some skin! Exterior trim is the home’s skin. This step is often performed while the roofers are still carrying out their duties on the roof. The same sheathing material that is used on the roof is used to cover the bare exterior framing studs. At this time, a vapor barrier is stapled to the sheathing to help prevent moisture and air from seeping in and rotting the studs. This is also when the windows and doors are installed, as well as fascia boards and soffit boards.
Exterior cladding is the next step in the exterior trim process. This could be cedar siding, stucco, brick, stone, vinyl or cement fiber siding. Once the cladding is up, gutters can be installed. Keep in mind; it’s a good idea to wait until the roof is complete before you begin installing the gutters. You wouldn’t want a workers ladder to ruin your new gutter system.


Mechanical Systems
The mechanical systems include your heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems. They are better known as your HVAC systems. This step is completed in two steps, the first being worse then the second. The first step requires the workers to install the internal components that will be hidden once your house is complete. These components include your house’s water pipes, ducts, and wiring. The second step is when the subcontractors return at a later date and time to install the light and water fixtures, heat registers, etc.


Insulating the Home
Insulation is a huge step in the building process but it plays such an important role in the comfort of your home. Not to mention energy savings. This step requires the exterior wall cavities between the studs to be filled with whatever type of insulation you specify. Popular choices include fiberglass batts and blown cellulose, but a growing number of home builders are using foam insulation as well.

For those of you interested in “Green Building”, there are environmentally friendly insulation choices. A popular environmentally friendly insulation choice includes UltraTouch, a batt-type insulation made from reclaimed cotton. Other choices include insulation made from newspaper and low-density concrete.

Putting up Drywall
It is now time for the drywall. Drywall is hung, or nailed to your interior walls and ceilings, providing more structure to your home. After the drywall is hung, you will notice the builders spreading a thin, fibrous tape over the seams between the sheets. Joint compound is then spread over the tape. Typically, about three coats of the compound is applied, allowed to dry and sanded smooth before the walls are ready for the final step.
It is now your turn to decide what kind of walls you want. For example, do you want to paint, wallpaper or apply a textured effect to your walls? If you aren’t going to paint or wallpaper, then now is the time where you can have a texture applied to your walls as a nice finishing touch.

Putting Interior Trim in Place
Interior trim begins with your doors. Lengths of trim wood are applied to the outside edges of the door openings and base molding pieces are applied to the walls where they meet the floor. Crown moldings cover the walls where they meet the ceiling. Once the doors trims are finished, other trim needs such as stair rails and fireplace mantels are installed.

Painting and Staining
We are now approaching the final steps to the completion of your new home. It is now time for the painting and staining processes. Any trim pieces that were installed unfinished can be painted or stained and any untextured walls can be painted or wallpapered. Be sure to prepare all of the areas that you plan to paint or stain. Sometimes the drywallers leave compound joint on the walls and it should be filed down before you paint or stain.

Finish Work
This is the interior designing part.  It is now time to bring in your beautiful kitchen and bath cabinets and counters. The tiles, the carpet, the blinds and curtains, the appliances, the furniture, and all the other aesthetic touches are now finding a place within your new walls.  The subcontractors come back to install the heat registers, light fixtures and water fixtures.


Cleanup & Landscape
A home is definitely judged by its cover. The final steps include your driveway and/or sidewalk being installed, the landscape being created, and the process of clean-up beginning. Try saving a few bucks and tackling the clean-up on your own. This process can be made easy if you call your garbage company and have them drop off one of those oversized trash receptacles to throw away any remaining debris that you find.


View the full article at http://www.customhomekey.com/
photo courtesy of Google

Monday, March 22, 2010

Tufted Dining Benches



I'm still obsessed with planning for renovating my first home and am fantisizing about a dining room with a tufted bench behind the dinner table a-la Sarah Richardson...











last two images via: bandelle.com and decorpad.

LA Los Feliz House

I love this Los Feliz dining area!



image from habitually chic

Friday, March 19, 2010

Tudor-Style Houses

My partner and I are dreaming about one day moving out of a condo and into a house.  We plan to buy an older home and renovate it from top to bottom.  The style of house we are drawn to are mostly Tudor Houses and Colonial Houses.  I have compiled my favourite photos of Tudor Houses.  I prefer the base colour to be darker, rather than white with dark brown trim because I think the latter looks outdated.  In my opinion, with a coat of paint, stone or brick over the white a tudor home is immediately modernised.














Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Simple but Beautiful Art





 










 




via apartment therapy, poppytalk, desingismine, decorology, desire to inspire, decor8,

Friday, March 12, 2010

Friday Photo Round Up

Here are my favourite photos for the week.  Have a wonderful and joyous weekend!





 


 




Wednesday, March 10, 2010

My Favourite Geometric Patterns

Geometric patterns are extremely popular in 2010.  These sexy patterns can be found on walls, pillows, window treatments, table covers, bedding, rugs and most upholstered furniture.


 



 



via domino magazine




  








 









Sunday, March 7, 2010

New York Apartment with a Paris Flair

 Interior designer Paula Caravelli's Manhattan apartment has many accessories of a chic Paris pied-a-terre.  I love the unique art and the octagon Gerald Bland mirror.  Some of the pieces are quite modern, but are balanced out by vintage-looking side tables, sofas and chairs.

 

Friday, March 5, 2010

:.:Spring Things:.: {bicycles}

I am dreaming of the sunny spring days where it stays light out til 8:30pm and we can go cycling by the seawall.  I want to get a bike this year, but of course, it has to be a pretty vintage one- I just can't see myself on a mountainbike...

Have a wonderful weekend!